Aquarium filter is one of the most important device which is to be  installed in an aquarium. So, when choosing a filter one needs to  consider the size of the tank, the type and size of the fishes in the  tank, and the time one has to maintain the filtration system. Every  filter needs maintenance, some more than others, and if you won't take  the time to do the maintenance then the filtration system will become  ineffective. 
Here is a listing on the most common types of filters:
Under gravel Filter (UGF)
The UGF has been used for decades by hobbyists with great success.  Unfortunately, this filter gets a lot of bad press by hobbyists who  simply do not understand the basic concept and necessary maintenance  behind UGF´s. The UGF consists of a hard plate which sits on the bottom  of the aquarium. The plate is raised slightly off the bottom of the tank  to support a layer of gravel. There are small slots in the plate and  riser tubes on the ends. An air stone or water pump (called a "power  head") is used to move water up the riser tubes. The result is water  flowing through the gravel bed, under the filter plate, and up the riser  tubes (called "uplift tubes"). The water brings oxygen to the gravel  bed, promoting the growth of beneficial bacteria. These bacteria  metabolize the ammonia and nitrite in the aquarium. The result is a very  effective biological filter. Unfortunately, waste is also pulled into  the gravel bed. Because of this the gravel bed can easily become  clogged, which results in poor water quality. It is necessary to do  frequent water changes and gravel cleaning. This is easily accomplished  with a siphon hose / gravel vac, which allows you to pull the waste out  of the gravel bed while doing water changes. Provided you keep the  gravel bed clean and free of debris, the UGF is a very reliable and  cheap filter. I have many UGF´s myself and have never had a problem with  them. It should be pointed out that if you are keeping large fish which  dig and move the gravel bed around, the UGF will become inefficient.  Water will simply flow through the exposed filter plate, rather than  through the gravel bed which supports the bacteria. For large fish an  external method of biological filtration is desired. 
Corner Filters / Box Filters
These filters are usually sold with cheap, small setups and usually fail  to support an aquarium. The design is a small box filled with carbon  and filter floss. Water is pulled through the box and back into the  water. These units sit inside the aquarium and are powered by an air  pump. They are designed for mechanical and chemical filtration, and  support a small amount of bacteria, until the floss and carbon are  changed. I have had good results by removing the floss and carbon,  replacing it with gravel or other biomedia. This will allow for a  limited amount of bacteria growth, capable of supporting a small fish  load. These filters work well for raising fry. You are best to simply  purchase a sponge filter which is about the same price, yet much more  effective. 
Sponge Filters
These are also an internal form of biological filtration. Water is  pulled through a sponge and then pumped back into the water column. As  the water flows through the sponge bacteria grows, as with the UGF.  Sponges are very inexpensive and capable of supporting a very large  bioload, provided your fish are not extremely large. Sponges tend to  become covered with waste and normally need to be cleaned on a monthly  basis. Cleaning the sponge only takes about 30 seconds. When doing your  regular partial water change, you can remove the sponge and rinse it out  in the bucket of dirty aquarium water. This will allow you to remove  any debris from the sponge without harming the bacteria bed. Sponge  filters are excellent for aquariums where a gentle water flow is  required. They are also excellent as a secondary biological filter,  which can easily be placed in a hospital tank for immediate biological  filtration, should the need arise. I currently run 35 aquariums using  the Sponge filter as the only form of filtration. I find them to be very  easy to maintain. 
Trickle (Wet-Dry) Filters
A trickle filter sits underneath the aquarium stand. Water is gravity  fed to the trickle filter where a bacteria bed is supported. This  bacteria can consist of bioballs, a biowheel, or other biological media.  The key is that all of the media should be held out of the water. Water  is allowed to "trickle" over the biomedia while being exposed to air.  The result is an extremely large amount of bacteria growth, capable of  supporting extremely large fish loads. Most trickle filters will have a  prefilter which serves for mechanical filtration. If you decide to  design your own model, it is very important that all of the biomedia be  out of the water. Submersed biomedia defeats the purpose of a trickle  filter and you may as well use a sponge filter. 
Power Filters
These filters hang on the back of your aquarium. Water is pulled into  the filter and pushed through a filter pad containing carbon. The result  is mechanical and chemical filtration. These are usually not a very  good source of biological filtration. However, many designs have  incorporated a biological filtration pad within the unit, and thus  become a complete filtration system. These include the Whisper,  AquaClear, and Millennium units. I have personally had mixed results  using these units for biological filtration purposes. The only power  filter unit I have used which has an excellent biological filter are the  Penguin models, which are discussed below. The power filters are  primarily meant to accent current biological filtration, such as a  sponge filter or undergravel filter. 
BioWheel Filters
These products are primarily produced by Penguin and combine a  biological filter with the advantages of mechanical and chemical  filtration. They consist of a unit which hangs on the back of the  aquarium. Water is pulled into the unit by an impeller and then  discharged back into the aquarium. The biowheel itself is the last step  in the filtration process. It grows enormous amounts of bacteria and is  capable of supporting a large fish load. This is my preference for  aquariums which house large cichlids. This filter line also includes a  mechanical filter pad. This pad is the first step in the filtration  process. As water flows through the pad large particles are removed,  keeping the biowheel free of debris. The filter pad needs to be rinsed  off or changed on a regular basis. Also, inside the filter pad, is a  layer of activated carbon. The carbon removes odors and other impurities  from water. This will keep your tank from smelling fishy, as well as  keep the water crystal clear. I am very partial to the Penguin line of  filters, especially the Emperor models. These provide the best of both  worlds all in one unit: biological and mechanical / chemical filtration.  
Canister Filters
These filters are rather expensive but usually of very good quality and  efficiency. Water is taken from the aquarium through a hose and into a  tight-locked container which can rest anywhere outside the tank. In the  container it passes through several compartments which allow you to  configure the filtration media any way you want. A water pump then  pushes the water back into the tank through another hose. This type of  filter is very versatile and allows you to enhance biological,  mechanical, or chemical filtration according to your tanks necessities,  or keep a good balance of all three in a single unit. 
Fluidized Bed Filters
These filters are growing in popularity and deservingly so. They consist  of a cylindrical pipe filled with sand. Water is pumped through the  filter and the sand, resulting in massive bacteria growth. They are an  amazing source of biological filtration contained in a very small unit.  Aquariums up to several thousand liters can be filtered with these  units. They do require a prefilter to remove particulate matter. The  prefilter should be cleaned weekly to allow for the filter to maintain  its water flow rate. These units are best used in conjunction with a  power or mechanical filter of a high flow rate. 
Aquarium filters are must to keep not only aquarium clean but also to help fishes in it to live longer.
 
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